Friday, September 30, 2011

Food and Wine Pairing

We were told that wine and food go together-- in Italy one would never drink a glass of wine without food.  (Gianni, our sommelier/instructor, apparently hasn't spent much time at our student housing.)  The notion is that food and wine accompany each other, sharing a path together, with a perfect pairing allowing for the full possibility of expression of both the food and wine.  

"Fusione delle sensazioni" suggests that our wine and food senses-- smell, taste and tactile-- should walk the path together in a fusion of sensations that depart at the same time, leaving us with a clean palate.  In Texas, we would put it this way: The wine shouldn't overpower the food, and vice versa.  

Gianni introduced us to a technique for pairing food and wine.  Before our course is completed, we will have tasted 29 food and wine pairings.  Today, we learned the basics and paired two wines (a decanted 2000 Batasiolo Barolo and a 2010 Candido Salice Salentino rose' "Le Pozzelle") with an 18-month old Grana Padano cheese (very similar to Parmigiana Reggiana). 

The technique calls for tasting the wine and numerically rating it on a 1-10 scale for intensities of smell and persistency, and again for intensities of taste for sweetness, softness, acidity, sapidity, tannins (tactile sensation), and alcohol content.  These numbers are plotted on a graph.  Next, the food is tasted and likewise measured for sapidity, bitterness, acidity, sugar, fat, natural sweetness, succulence, and greasiness, as well as persistence of taste, spiciness, smell.  

The food scores are plotted on the the same graph, which juxtaposes the wine and food measurements in such a fashion that the sweetness and softness of the wine is opposite the food's rating for bitterness and acidity.  Similarly, measurement of the food's natural sweetness is on the opposite side of the graph's rating for wine acidity.  Another example:  The wine's tannins, which produce that tactile sensation and which absorb saliva, is graphed opposite the food's measurement of succulence, which produces saliva even upon smell alone.

When plotted, good pairings will create a geometrically similar pattern on the graph.  The idea is to train the mouth and brain to make these assessments without having to plot a graph and gaze at geometric similarities.  If that fails, we will at least have notes from 29 wine tastings and food pairings.

Here's how the Salice Salentino rose' and the Barolo worked out.  The full-bodied Barolo, on the graph and in the mouth, overpowered our 18-month old cheese, whereas the rose' and the Grana Padano were both harmonious in the mouth and geometrically similar on the chart.  Gianni's suggestion, if you want to pair Grana Padano with a full-bodied Barolo, try the same cheese that has aged longer, say 36 months, so that the cheese can accompany the wine, creating a fusion of sensations that leave the palate at the same time. 

The short version:  Pair a young Candido Salice Salentino rose' with a young Grana Padano or Parmigiana Reggiana cheese.     

27 pairings to go.



Sent from my iPhone

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

First Exam Tomorrow

Our first exam requires that each student prepare a recipe which is drawn from a hat (a mixing bowl, actually) and present the dish to a panel of four Italian chefs who serve as judges.

I believed I would be fine so long as I didn't draw a pastry recipe, as I don't even understand how to operate the ovens in the pasticceria. Luckily, I drew gnocchi alla Sorrentina, which is potato gnocchi in an onion and basil tomato sauce. All is well for me, having dodged the pastry bullet. Whew.

In this photo, our humorous and patient translator, Bridgit, oversees the recipe drawing.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Tongue Tasting Zones, in Italian

Enologia

Our instructor and sommelier, Giancarlo Lercara, discussed the various regions for Italian wine production in our last enologia lecture. We tasted two red wines, a 2006 Colutta Refosco (Fruili) and a 2005 Moroder Rosso Conero.

Although I'm dedicated to learning the method, and I'm certainly doing my wine drinking homework, after a few sniffs of a glass, I simply cannot detect such scents as "fruits that have been processed, such as jams," "wood," "dried mushrooms, such as when you first open a package," "bay leaf," etc.

On the upside, I can detect a "cristallino" limpidity when I see the outline of my finger between the glass of red and a light source. (As can anyone with corrected vision, but I believe in setting the bar low when measuring success.)

Here's a neat video of Gianni decanting the Refresco. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozW141SFeyY

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Wine Instruction

Enologia

We've completed about 6 hours of lesson in wine, led by our instructor and sommelier Giancarlo Lercara.

Our method of analysis was created by the Italian Association of Sommeliers, and breaks down along the 3 general lines of visual, smell and taste. Each category is subdivided into several subsections, with multiple variations with each subsections. For example, the visual analysis considers 4 factors, including limpidity, which is judged on a 5-part scale, ranging from veiled to brilliant.

It's all very scientific, with the eyes, nose and mouth collecting data that is analyzed according to a detailed methodology. My palate is not so refined, so I look forward to learning this process (and tasting many, many wines).

Here is a video of Giancarlo explaining the olifactory aspect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFVKVgO-Xkg

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Biscotti di Meliga

Here's a basic biscotti recipe that can be used to make different shaped cookies as seen in this photo.
Biscotti di Meliga

150 grams white baking flour
125 grams of butter
60 grams sugar
60 grams corn flour
33 grams egg yoke
20 grams egg white
2 grams baking powder

In mixer add butter, sugar and baking powder, mix well.

Then add eggs to mixer.

In a separate bowl mix flours together, then add combined flours to mixing bowl, mix no more than 90 seconds at a slow setting.

Cover and refridgerate for at least 30 minutes.

Roll out dough, cut into desired shapes, place on baking sheet covered with baking paper and bake at 170 degrees Centigrade until golden.

Tip of the day: use unsalted butter with low water content, 82% fat content.

Here Chef Massimiliano cuts the cookie dough. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DanRca9r_4

Pasticceria

Chef Massimiliano demonstates biscotti making.